All Tied Up in Grey

I love this cardigan. If I could get away with wearing it every single day, I would. Between the comfort and the style, I never ever want to take it off!

It's from McCall's 6408, a pattern I would've completely passed on by if not for Stacie from Stacie Thinks She Can. Seriously, it's getting ridiculous how much we keep copying enabling each other, and I don't see it ending anytime soon, especially considering that I've ordered a copy of Colette's Peony purely because of this. (And also maybe this, because I need a version in wool tweed, yes I do.)

But anyways, she made a gorgeous polka dot version here, and then offered the same fabric up in a giveaway (isn't she sweet?). I wanted her cardi as soon as I saw it (looks so much nicer than the envelope versions, that's for sure), and when I won the fabric (eeeee!!), I knew I'd have to copy emulate her. But then there were a few mailing issues, not the least of which was me giving the wrong address, and the fabric only just arrived this week.

Ahem, whoops. And like Stacie, I'm way too impatient to wait for the fabric to get here before I made this, so voila! Tied cardi in grey.

I've never had so many compliments on a something I've worn nor so many people asking where I bought the garment in my entire history of wearing clothes. My Mom, who hates most of the clothes I wear (and sometimes make), has ordered a version in black. I will add pockets to hers, and in my next one. Because there will be a next one. This cardigan is ridiculously easy to make and ridiculously easy to wear. No buttons, no zippers, no interfacing, just simple seams, and built in belt, and a bit of easing in sleeves.

Speaking of, these are probably the nicest sleeves I've ever eased. The medium-weight knit probably helped with that. This fabric was a dream to work with. Don't ask for details, I can't remember what it was, but it's the weight of yoga pants and holds its weight without stretching or losing shape. Was originally going to make sweat pants out of them, but this is so much better.

Of course, just because I found it easy to make doesn't mean I didn't have problems. I (stupidly) attached both ties to the inside of the cardigan. Instead of sandwiching the tie between the front and back piece on the side like I should've, I...well, you can see below. No, don't ask me why, I don't know.

Sorry for the dark photo. Yes, that's the tie sewn to the inside seam, hanging inside the garment and definitely not popping out on the right side of the garment through the side seam. Yes, I did it on both sides. I don't know.

Luckily it was easy to fix by spending some careful time with my seam ripper. Yank the stitches and zig-zag seam finish along the tie, stick the tie through the hole, and re-stitch the seam closed with the tie sandwiched properly through the seam.

Fixed!

A lot of the reviews on PR noted that the size fits big, and that the sleeves are wonky. Based on my measurements, I should've cut at least a large, probably an extra-large. Based on tissue measurements, especially across the back and shoulders, I cut size small. Yes, 3 sizes smaller. I wanted a fitted look through the top and drappy looseness at the bottom, not baggy all over. And I didn't want most of the back to be pulled around to the front like it shows on the envelope picture.

While I'm mostly pleased with the results, I should've given a bit more room in the back. There wasn't as much stretch in this knit as I was accounting for, and you can see how tight it looks from the back. HOWEVER in my defense, this picture was taken on my first day wearing it, and I've since learned to loosen up the ties a bit. This dispels the worse of the chub-hugging. I suspect that working with a stretchier knit would also help reduce this, but I'll add some more width along the centre of the back anyways, especially for a bit more bum room.

The only other thing I did was sew the sleeves at 1/4" instead of 5/8", since they were a little too snug. Could probably widen them a tiny bit more, even if I do like the snug sleeve.

Isn't the cream stitching on the grey fabric lovely? I made sure to topstitch where I could.

Oh, and just because they suggest using clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seam, doesn't mean you can't improvise with regular 1/8" elastic! This makes the shoulder seam gather a tiny bit when unworn, but sits nicely when wearing it. Which is a bit of a shame, actually, because the light gathers on the shoulder are pretty (see photo of set in sleeve above). Will have to remember that.

Thanks Stacie for making me notice this pattern! I think I may need a polka dot version of it, and then we'll just have to be Spotted Cardi Twins.

But I guess I should make my Mom's first.

If I have to.

I guess.

:)

P.S. Look what else Stacie included in my wandering fabric package! I love lace, I do. Thanks!

Treasure Hunting Yarrr!

I'm sorry dear readers, I've been rather quiet of late. It's not that I haven't been sewing (boy have I been sewing) or that I don't have anything to say (scads of potential posts dance in my head). It's just that I've had no desire to write any of it down. I've been in a bit of a funk lately, and that means I haven't really wanted to share much of myself.

Now that I realize this, I'm going to work on beating it. I'll try to make it up to you with all the posts that's been dancing in my head. They really need to be evicted.

The post ideas started off slow, gentle. Lovely to consider, but easy to put aside for another day.


But then they became this:


A little bit harder to ignore.

So in an attempt to ease my way into this again, I'm going to share the results of my adventures last week and weekend! Not strictly related to sewing, but tangentially related. That counts, right?

Of course it does!

So, a bit of back story. When I moved into my place, I bought this couch:

Ugly, eh? I thought it was ugly in a lovely way, but within a couple days I couldn't lie to myself any more: it was just plain ugly. I couldn't do anything with it! How could I make fun and lovely pillows when they'd go on that monstrosity?! So the couch had to go.

Last week, I found this gem on kijiji, and after a thorough check over, bribing a helper with a truck, and a steam cleaning, it's replaced my monstrosity. SO MUCH BETTER and so much more comfortable! And the best part is I can make funky pillows for it now! (The crochet owl pillow came with the couch. BONUS!)

See, tangentially related to sewing!

So now that I've got some living room furniture I'm not utterly ashamed of, I want to start finding some art for my walls. And since I've been cruising past the Mulvey Flea Market twice a day, every single day on my way to and from work and it's only a 20 minute walk from my place, I decided that Saturday was going to be TREASURE HUNTING DAY!

And boy what treasures were there to be found!

I got these two framed pictures for my sewing nook area (sorry for the crummy quality pictures), because who can resist Victorian ruffly dresses? Got the pair for $40, which I think is a pretty good deal, considering the crap I've been seeing at the stores lately for a lot more than that.

Now if I could just find the hardware to my cork board and hang the thing up, my sewing nook will start looking quite respectable. (Although I really need to tidy up and do something with that chair. A bit of paint and new fabric maybe?)

Then I found this art deco-y nouveau (thanks Fuss!) mirror, which is looking lovely on my living room window sill. I paid $20 for it, which is maybe a little steep, but I fell in love immediately and even managed to haggle the seller down a bit (I'm pants at haggling).

Seriously, I love the woman peeping into the mirror. This is something that's staying with me for a loooong time!

And finally, I found an oval mirror for my entry way, because I'm sick of stomping across my living room with my boots on to see if my scarf and hat are on decently straight. Plus it reminded me of one my Great Aunt had that I adored. $15, thank you very much.

Top it off with a hot cuppa coffee at my new favourite local independent coffee shop and a bowl of homemade potato dill soup, and I call the day a success!

Next up...an actual sewing project! Remember, keep your eyes peeled for treasure, in whatever form you find it in. :)

OMG I'm Trying Pants (Again)

I know I've been really quiet as of late, both on my blog and on others. Between work being insane and the holidays, I haven't really been up to much on the sewing side of life.

But I'm dedicating tonight to sewing, and I can't tell you how excited I am about this! So of course I had to share.

I'm working on...wait for it...a pair of pants! My first pair since this disaster. No, it's not the trouser pattern I've been sitting on forever to make (mostly because it's the wrong size and also sort of complicated), but a simpler straight-legged version from New Look 6082.

I know I know, you're all saying "But Heather, last time you learned that the crotch-curve sucks on New Look patterns, especially if you have a huge butt", but whatever, I'm trying it out anyways. It's Stacie's fault for making her lovely clovers, and since I am obviously jealous of her straight-leg pants and want a pair of my own to fit into my knee-high boots (and don't actually own the clover pattern), I'm trying these.

Don't worry, I'm making (hopefully wearable) muslins, and have my copy of Pants for Real People sitting beside me as I snip and cut.

This is one of the first coordinate pattern sets where I actually love almost everything on it. I adore that cardigan jacket (the short version, the long looks too much like a lab coat to me), and am tickled that it's a woven! Might have to (for once) make multiple garments from this one.

Do any of you actually make multiple different garments from a coordinate pattern set?

And in lieu of anything productive to share besides some rambling, here's my slowly growing cross-stitch project. (Some photo editing since I suck at taking pictures, and then suck at editing. But the colours look more true this way, even if it is blinding.)

Rush Order Christmas Party Dress

I've mentioned here and there (twitter, comments on other blogs, facebook, etc) that I was doing a sewing marathon yesterday, trying to finish off my Christmas party dress (never in the world thought I'd make myself a 'party dress', but that's how life goes sometimes) in time for my work Christmas dinner, and then a friend's party afterward.

Well, I get 'er done.

For a specific definition of 'done'.

I decided a few months ago that I needed Simplicity 2305 - a Cynthia Rowley garment - out of green satin. This is probably the very first time I just wanted to make a pretty party dress. I think I need to make more, because dresses are awesome!

Anyways, I had most of the pieces cut out of a crepe-back satin by Friday night, and even attached the front and back bodice pieces. Saturday, I procrastinated...a lot, but after a short walk and a cup of coffee, I rolled up my sleeves and started sewing at about 11:30. And barely stopped until I finished the darn thing.

Of course, I finished at 6 pm, exactly when my work dinner was starting. BUT there's nothing wrong with being fashionably late, especially when you're wearing a knock-out dress!

I got tonnes of compliments on it, and loved people's reactions when I told them I'd made it. The best part, though, was when they asked how long it took me to make it, and I said 'um...today'. :)

Of course, I didn't point out all the problems with it. For one thing, the whole dress is too big. I cut a size 16 for the arms, 18 through the bodice and waist, and a 20 for the hips, as per my measurements. I should've stuck with a 16 for the entire bodice and an 18 for the hips. You can see in the two pics below how much nicer the dress would've looked if it was snugger around the waist.

And look! I did my first successful FBA! While the dress was big on me along the sides, the bodice was really comfortable, but not too baggy. I think if I hadn't done the 1 inch FBA, it would've been too snug and ill-fitted in the bust. Okay, I'm sold. It's wasn't even that hard after all, probably thanks to my copy of Fit for Real People.

I found the sleeves a bit too long. It'd look much nicer if the cuff ended just above my elbow, instead of hanging over it when I stand. Think next time I'll shorten the cut-on sleeves a bit.

Also, I did my very first invisible zipper...at 5:40 pm. I didn't even have time to do a practice run. It's not very invisible, but since it's on my side and covered by my belt and arm, I don't think it's that bad. Plus look at how well lined up that waist-band is! I'm that proud.

The zipper is really rough on the inside, but I just didn't have time to finish it. I'll have to though, because the satin frays like crazy when you simply look at it and even worse when you don't.

Most of the seams were finished in a mock serger fashion, using a tight zig zag stitch. I think this is my favourite finishing technique, since it's simple and strong.

I did take the time to hand stitch the hem, since I didn't want a visible stitch line along it. For a 10 minute job, it looked decent. This satin refuses to be pressed sharply, so it's a little poofy (as are all the seams).

I'd like to think I'll take the dress apart and at least take in the waistband and the skirt, but I probably won't. That's why belts were invented, yo! I wouldn't mind making another version of this dress, though. It's super comfortable to wear, looks awesome, and I don't think it's too distinctive of a pattern to have two versions of. I think it'd even look good as a day dress, if you use different fabric.

Here she is, inside out. I LOVE the crepe-back satin, and sort of wish I'd used the crepe side somewhere on the outside of the dress. Oh well, next time.

So despite all these problems and the rush, it was a successful dress (although next time I'm adding pockets). Now I just need to figure out how to wash satin, because I got a couple drinks spilled on me, and you can see the marks on the dress. :(

Oh also, look what I made while waiting for the cab to arrive! Cut out a circle of fabric big enough to contain your wallet and whatever else you need, tightly zig-zag around the edge and trim, zig-zag a length of ribbon on the outside, and voila, instant purse!

For more specific details on the dress (sizes, fabric type, alterations, etc), please check out my review over at PR.

Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a great holiday, from me and my three little plant pets! (From left to right, Lowell the Aloe Vera, Tiny Tim the...tiny tropic, and Agetha the Aglaonema)

PR Day 2011

Photo taken by Sheila. Bag owned by Brenda. That is, until I can sneak it into my purse without her noticing.

So ages ago (on November 19 to be exact), sewists around the world gathered to celebrate Pattern Review's 10th anniversary. While we were a small crowd (of three: Sheila, Brenda and myself), a gathering did occur here in Winnipeg.

From left to right: Brenda (aka goal100 on PR), me (Heather aka bare_bear), and Sheila (aka SheBear0320). Photo by Sheila's husband, who was a good sport, an ice cream enabler, and basically hid in his man-cave the entire time, poor man.

The celebration included:

• tasty scones (ala me, extremely fresh out of the oven when Brenda arrived a bit early to pick me up while they were still baking away in the oven)

Mmm scones. Photo by Sheila.

• tasty coffee (ala Sheila)
  
• sewing chatter and oogling Sheila's sewing studio (I WANT HOMG)
  
• full body measurements (yay I finally know how wide my shoulders are and what my crotch curve measurements are - the latter of which was extremely awkward to take, btw)
• an excellent lunch at Mongo's Grill
• FABRIC SHOPPING!

Our fabric haul. Photo by Sheila.

• bubbly back at Sheila's place, then a tasty pizza dinner to stave off the effects of the bubbly

Mmm bubbly. Photo by Sheila.

• and finally, an excursion for ice cream (did I mention it was something like -25C outside? That's just how we 'Peggers roll)
  

All in all, it was a fantastic day! Exhausting, but so much fun. The best part was meeting two awesome and talented Winnipeg sewists, even if they are horrible enablers. (Stop tempting me to go back to Northwest Fabrics, Sheila!)

Also, it turns out that Sheila has the best job in the world and sews for a living (hence her amazing sewing studio). She makes athletic apparel, most notably figure skating outfits, but is branching out to other sports as well. Please go check out her website Chianto by Sheila to see what she gets up to. Someday I'm going to convince her to hire me so that I can spend my days sewing too!

So we hit up three fabric stores that I didn't even know existed in Winnipeg. I'll bet you're wondering what I come home with, eh? I didn't go crazy, but I think I won the fabric race out of the three of us. I found some pretty black underwear elastic ridiculously priced at 10 cents/m at Economy Textiles, as well as a stack of quilting cotton. Need to go back there, because the prices are out of this world!

I found this lingerie pattern for wovens from a local woman at ...uh, I can't remember the name of the place. Not a huge selection of fabric, but they had some unique stuff, and the man who runs the place is apparently a wizard with sewing machine repairs. They also had a room in the back with some lovely pelts and leather pieces. Very cool.

Finally, I was done in at Marshall's/Northwest Fabrics, which is the biggest fabric store I've ever seen! Maybe it's about the same size at Mitchell's, but it's all laid out on one big floor, and everything is sorted according to fabric type. I obviously need to spend more time here, to uh...learn more about different fabric types. Yeah, that's it...

Despite being completely overwhelmed, I managed to pull my wits together enough to trackdown the wool and lining I wanted to make a winter coat. Aren't they pretty! I love the burgundy. That was entirely Brenda, because I was going to make myself get the black wool, and she talked me into going with what I was drawn to, which was the burgundy. It's a melton wool, and the black is a flannel-backed satin.

Obviously I need to fabric shop with other sewist more often. OR NOT, because youch I bought a lot of fabric! Thanks Sheila and Brenda!

And thanks, Pattern Review, for encouraging your members to celebrate and have fun for your 10th anniversary. Congrats on reaching such a milestone!