I've made this top before, for the PR wardrobe contest last summer. I simply adored the shirt, and wore it constantly. I still do, but less so now because it's starting to get pitted, and I really should get around to mending the unraveling neckline one of these days. But I probably won't because tossing a cardigan on top hides all of the problem spots!
Anyways, I made this top from 1 m of poly-blend mystery knit that I picked up from the end of bolt section at Fabricland for about $5. It was picked up for exactly this pattern (about a year ago), so go me for sticking to a plan!
As with the older version, I cut a size 12 (I normally use size 16 - this pattern runs large) and eliminated the centre back seam. It's a knit, why would you need ties at the back unless you actually like the design element? Which I don't, thus no centre back seam and ties.
Of course, this meant changing the neckline binding piece. Last time, I cut it pretty long, not accounting for stretch. (Also last time I cut out the wrong pattern piece, hense why the binding is much thinner on the old version. Whoops.) This lead to a much wider neckline overall. While it's very flattering, it's so wide that sometimes my bra strap shows, and I have to be careful when I lean over. This time, I cut a length of fabric 29 inches long (the neckline itself measured somewhere around 35 inches), sewed it into a loop, and stretched it to fit around the neckline. This has lead to a higher and snugger neckline that doesn't gape at all, as you can sort of see above. Next time, I'll probably add another inch or two to the binding, as I really had to stretch it to cover the entire neckline.
I really like the neckline. The height is perfect, and the gathering on the front and back is lovely. In the original pattern, you're supposed to leave a slit along the centre back seam, and the neck binding creates ties. There is gathering on the back, but on either side of the slit. I simply gathered all of the fabric between the two outer marks, making sure the final length was about what it should've been if the slit was there.
The other major change between the two versions is the sleeves. In the older version, I included the elastic ans casing indicated in version B. I suspect that I made the elastic too tight (a mistake I've made a couple times now - elastic is hard!), and found it a bit uncomfortable. In this latest version, I chose to simply make a 1/4 inch rolled hem and leave the sleeves fluttery. I really like the effect (and it's far more comfortable!), except that the rolled hem has a habit of flipping up. This is something I've encountered before, and I really should've learned my lesson by now. NOTE TO SELF: 1/2 TO 3/4 INCH HEM NEXT TIME.
Look at my shoddy stitch line. Sewing knits is also hard!
Also, after a year of fighting with it and often putting on the original version backwards, I opted to attach a small tube of self-fabric to the back on the inside to easily differentiate between the front and back. Someday I'll make my own tags, but for now, this works.
I don't really have a picture of it, but I finished all the inside seams by zigzagging next to the seam line. It makes me smile when I see seam finishing inside of my garments!
I love this pattern (with my alterations), and I really like this top. The only downside is my shoddy choice in material. I thought it was a decent knit, but this proves I still have a long way to go in fabric choices. It's obviously a poly-something, since it doesn't breath, doesn't wrinkle, and piles like a mofo after only 3 wearings. ARGH!
Oh well. I will definitely be making this pattern again (and again, and again). I think it will take well to some design changes too. I was thinking of how I could alter it to resemble this top made by Tanit-Isis, but then I realized that a band around the hips would be a really bad idea for me. Still, I have some ideas. More on that in my next post, where I'll be showing off some of my recent (thrift store) fabric finds, and the ideas they've inspired!
Anyways, big round of applause should go to Mabe, my lovely headless sewing assistant. This is her first time out of the box since I received her for Christmas, and I think she did a lovely job modeling, don't you? Even if she's a little smaller than me around the middle...darn her and her flat tummy!
Happy sewing all!
It's a very flattering top on you (and Mabe), and even though I just ranted about black/gray on my blog for ME, I still really like the print.
ReplyDeleteThis top is lovely on you. Thank you for posting about it as I have this pattern sitting on my to make pile. You have encouraged me to get on with it!!!
ReplyDeleteSo great to see that you are sewing again! The top looks great!
ReplyDeleteThat fabric looks really familiar - is it from Fabricland?
(too lazy to log in and post from my Fuss account, but you know who this is :P )
Thanks ladies!
ReplyDelete@waikikimum: You should definitely try it! And altering it to remove the centre seam is really easy if you're interested in doing that(just don't forget to take out the 5/8" seam allowance).
@Heather: The fabric is indeed from Fabricland. Can't remember if you were there when I bought it, but I'm sure I showed it off to you somewhere along the way. :)
I love the black and grey fabric. Knits shouldn't be hard to sew if you are using the right needle (microtex super sharp) and use larger stitches on your top stitching.
ReplyDeleteIt looks very nice! Also, does your machine have a walking foot? I generally do everything I can on my serger when it comes to knits (seams, etc.) but sometimes you have to use the regular machine regardless. I've found that the walking foot does reduce the waviness of things.
ReplyDeleteHi Becky! Thanks so much! I don't have a walking foot, although I'm starting to consider investing in one. I'd LOVE to get a serger, but that's not in the cards for a long time yet. :)
ReplyDeleteThis looks like a great TNT pattern and it fits you very well. I had to chuckle at a few things you said though in a knowing "been there, done that" sort of way. Most notably the flipping of hems. I thought I'd have learned after a while not to do that anymore, but it seems it's a "new" lesson each time :)
ReplyDelete