Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Pants: V2.0 - BLEGH


Okay, let's focus on the good points.  I spent some time playing with those patch pockets.  On my next pair, I'll definitely make them wider since the pattern includes a one-size-fits-all piece that just moves further and further from the centre seam, but I don't think it's too bad here.

I lined the pockets in some quilting cotton you may recognize from here and here, and trimmed them in some lace I found at a new-to-me Awesome Dollar Store in town.  Which, incidentally, has a better stocked sewing section than our only local (crappy) fabric shop.  OH RIGHT POSITIVITY.  I CAN DO THAT.

I'm pretty proud of the topstitching here!

In regards to the pants themselves, it's not too bad, just obscenely big.  As I mentioned before, I graded up a size 16 pattern to size 20, which should've fit according to my measurements.  In fact, this size "fits" slightly smaller than me, but I figured it was close enough and I only wanted 2 inches ease in the hips instead of the built in 3 inches.  I've made these before, and they certainly didn't turn out this huge.

Although to be fair, I'm pretty sure I should've cut a size 18 instead of 16 back then.

Anyways, I'm just going to toss up all of the fitting photos I just took.  Then I'm going to go dig through all of my pants fitting books and see what they suggest.  The only thing I know for sure is that I definitely need to add two more darts to the back.  Any suggestions by you folk would be mucho appreciated.

ETA: I guess I should add some context here.  This is Simplicity 2367, and I definitely don't want a wide legged trouser.  I'd like it more fitted, closer to what it looks like when I literally pinch out 3-4 inches of fabric from the side seams.  Believe it or not, but these leg pieces are 2-3 inches narrower than my previously considered Simplicity 2562 pattern.  As in, each leg piece is 2-3 inches narrower. So glad I didn't go with that one.  I'm not sure if the leg width will be best resolved by just taking in the sides or if I should take in the inside seam too.  Or just for the back pieces?  I'm really not sure.

Like I said, any advice would be appreciated.  HELP ME PLEASE!!!


  1. ok here's what i'd do. I'd sew those extra/deeper darts in the back waist. I'd unpick the whole side seam and take it in aggressively, especially through the thigh. Fit it slightly tighter than you think. Then put the waistband on and make sure that it is tight enough to lift the pants up a bit from where they are. I think that the slight pouching in the front crotch will disappear if the whole pant is held up a bit. I'd then wear them around teh house for a few days to get an idea of what feels tight/loose/ not right. I actually think that if you lift these pants up a bit by putting on a fitted waistband and take in the side seams then they will fit quite well. Both crotch curves look quite good. You just need to see you thighs in this stiff fabric. Really, I think this will be ok!!!!!

    1. Oh you're awesome! I thought these looked salvageable, but I just didn't know what to do with them, and I was afraid to start. I've been digging around in all of my fitting books, but they're going on the assumption that the pants are not stupidly large. I'll give these suggestions a try.

      Although I think that I need to take in the crotch curve at the front a bit, just because it's folding in (as if creating it's own seam)right on the inside curve. I'll try your suggestions first though. :)

      THANK YOU!

  2. I agree with accidentallykellystreet. That excess fabric in the front should smooth out with a waistband and take them in aggressively, I always sew the side seams last and just baste them, then take them in to where I want before sewing the final seam. The wrinkles at the back inner leg under your butt mean that your back crotch curve needs to be lower (I'll try to email you some fitting pics I took of fixing those wrinkles)
    Otherwise I think they are looking pretty good and you should end up with a nice pair of pants with some tweaking!

    1. Thanks so much, your pictures helped me understand exactly what happens when the back crotch curve is lowered. People talk about these things, but I didn't really understand the effect.

  3. Exactly! As Suzy, the back crotch is too high meaning the curve of yor butt is curvier than the crotch curve if that helps envision it. I agree with you too that the pockets seem scantly compared to the width of the pants, and, unfortunately, taking the pants in at the side means you will be losing more od the pockets. I would tell you it might be better to take them off and move them towards the center befor taking in the side seams if you can bear it. :-/.

    1. That helps a lot, thanks!

      I'm drastically bringing in the side seams, but I'm just basting for now. I think you're right, I'll have to tear out all of my pretty topstitching and move them afterward because I've lost almost half of the pocket! lol

  4. Ok, so I think I'm in agreement with everyone else---front crotch will be fine with waistband, dart away, and take the sides in as necessary, and I think a tweak to the back crotch curve would help a lot, too. (I'm glad other people have suggested this as I was thinking it and then going "but what do I know I never change crotch curves!")

    Looking at the pattern image, though, they're designed to be quite wide-legged, so I'm not surprised they ended up humongous. If you really want to stick with this pattern, in future iterations I'd probably take off equally from the thigh and hip-side... but that's probably not doable for this pair.

    Also, those are the cutest pockets ever. ;)

    1. I'm really concerned about the front crotch, because the photos above really don't show just how much fabric is there. I have a protruding tummy, but below that is a pretty distinct void. I've got a crazy kangaroo pouch of extra fabric down there, and it looks really bad when I do anything besides stand perfectly straight. But I'm holding off on dealing with that until I finish bringing in the side seams. That already seems to be helping a lot!

      I never really identified these as wide-legged, and they certainly didn't seem so in my first attempt. I mean, they were relatively wide, but in the way that I like (snug at the thigh and "flaired" (although just apparently wider) below the knee. I guess I had that pictured in my head and didn't acknowledge the line drawings. It's already looking better as I take out all the fabric from the side seams.

      Also to your also, thanks! I adore the pockets, and I think I'm going to have to move them over because they're too cute to lose. :)

  5. Can't give advice as I am not that good and the advice you received from the esteemed sewists above should hold you in good stead. One thing I will say (is this advice??) Have you tried a boot leg like Jalie?

    Loving the lace on the pocket - skills are great - just have to get the right pattern and fit. Can't wait to see what you finish up with.

    1. I haven't tried any Jalie patterns, but that might have to change now that I'm attempting pants. I SHALL TRIUMPH AND FACE THIS PANTS FEAR! :D

      Thanks! I saw the lace and knew exactly what I had to do with it!

      I'm kind of hoping to get a decent pants pattern out of this. I'm recording every change I make to the pattern itself, so hopefully I'll be able to reproduce any decent results.

  6. I agree with what everyone else said. I had to do the same thing on my pants, and I made the Jalie pattern too.

    Some other pants related things you might want to look into are:
    1. Kenneth King's "Jeanius" class on Craftsy for copying a pair of RTW jeans, but this means you need something that fits fairly well mainly at the crotch. (I've watched the entire thing a couple of times, but haven't started on my own pants yet!)
    2. You can copy/compare a crotch curve from an existing pair of pants. I read this somewhere, maybe a threads magazine?
    3. PatternReview has 2 pants related classes. I did the "Blueprint to Blue Jeans" a couple years ago and it was pretty good. Then there's the "Pants Fitting Workshop" with Sarah Veblen.

    When you do get your TNT pants pattern made, you can change it up to make other pants. Threads magazine No. 105, has an article "Restyling Pants".


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