Now that that's out of my system, let's recap where we stood last time with the FBA on the Simplicity 2254 top:
- Did a tissue fit and confirmed that a FBA was needed
- Traced out bodice pattern onto parchment paper
- Cut 1: Hacked off the kimono sleeve, from shoulder to armpit
- Cut 2: Cut from the middle of the dart to the bust apex, then from the apex to approximately the middle of the shoulder
- Forgot to leave a hinge at the shoulder for pivoting
- Discovered that painters tape doesn't even slightly stick to parchment paper
I initially considered just cutting the line from the apex to 1/3rd along cut 1 (as shown by the solid line in the second photo below), but it didn't look anything like Patty's. So I took a closer look at her photos. In Patty's picture below (let me know if you'd prefer me not using it Patty), I drew a line from shoulder to the side seam, simulating my patterns bodice. Projecting her cut along this line, you can see that cut 3 should be about half-way along cut 1. I think this looks a little better!
Photo credit to Patty at The Snug Bug
When cutting this line, don't forget to leave a little bit of the paper near the arm hole to act as a hinge (I remembered this time)! I swung this part out until there was a total of 2 inch gap near the apex of the bust (shown below). This will give me the 4 inches needed for the FBA!
The next cut (#5) will even up the bottom of the bodice, and simply involved cutting a horizontal line and dropping it until it's level with the bodice bottom on the left. According to Patty, this added length is needed to get around your bust, don't fret about the length!
My next step was to draw on points around the base of the darts and find the points of them. I sort of guestimated were the apex would be on here (and I'm betting there's a better way, or maybe this is something you learn with time and experience), and then guestimated again where the dart points should go. This basically involved a lot of poking around in front of a mirror and my cousin laughing at me.
I was going to simply re-affix the sleeve to this pattern piece, but I just don't trust the tape. So I simply traced out the pattern on a fresh piece of parchment (adding a bit of length where the sleeve attaches), cut it out, and attached the sleeve. It looks pretty good, I think. I tried to draw on the grainline on the pattern, but because of all the slashing, I'm not certain if it's right, and I'll have to play with adjustment when making my first muslin.
I hope I did this right. I tried doing a tissue fit, but this paper was too stiff, so I gave up. I intend to make a muslin anyways, so I suppose I'll find out then. I don't have any pictures of the tissue fit, but it looked something like this:
Next step: make a muslin. Sadly, I'm back out in the boonies, so I'm out of unlimited internet access. But that just means you'll get a more complete post, rather than one post broken up into two (or more!)
Happy sewing everyone!